Lesson #8: BK Whoppers in Puerto Rico Smell Like Armpits

March 25, 2016 @ Doel’s Crib (Toa Baja, PR)

The sharp air raised my skin the same way a walk in freezer would. Goosebumps galore. The inside of the ferries were maintained with such forceful, frosty air that I bet if this energy were to be redirected, it could single-handedly fuel all of the homes in Puerto Rico. Ok, maybe I’m exaggerating a little. So sue me.

I warmed myself up with a hot meal in the sun at the Fajardo dock while I waited for Doel to arrive. We reunited after my long, eventful week, and the first thing we did was stop at a wooden stand in the middle of the road for fried fritters called Pastelillos. Fried on the outside, stuffed with your selection of protein or starch on the inside.

My good friend then drove me to a beautiful beach in Quebradillas that housed the Guajataca Tunnel. Looking out from one end, I could see trees and rock formations; on the opposite side, I saw palm trees and the pristine, deep blue waves clapping against the rocks to applaud our arrival. Warm winds danced around us in concentric circles. I had front row seats for the best show in the world — la vida es bella.

In one of the caves, I hit my head hard enough to make a dent in it. Thus, I am forever referred to as Gumby Head.

We then headed to Survivor Beach in Aguadilla to collect small seashells. Unfortunately, we couldn’t find many. I teased Doel that the beach is missing its shells because everyone came to collect them before us, but later, he showed me his home collection and we scornfully chuckled at the irony of my joke. The beach had indeed been robbed of its charm. It was interesting there; the waves were intense and powerful, so families played in pools of water that gathered behind a barrier of rocks.

Next, he took me to the ruins of Ramey Base in Aguadilla. Rusty red and bronze, half demolished remains of stone proudly overlooked the coastal view. Mini dust tornados swept past us like cars with places to go, people to see. I, however, wasn’t in as much of a rush to leave.

We stopped by an ice slush stand in the middle of an empty parking lot. Good fucking choice Doel. An icy was exactly what we needed to cool off from the sun’s rays. You can see by the pictures that the clouds quickly shied away, withdrawing the filter of heat we desperately needed.

One of the coolest things I saw that day was at Crash Boat Beach. There is a man that went by an alias of Harry the Pelican Whisperer. According to Doel, he goes out to the docks around 3pm every day to greet his flock of pelican friends. He has them trained by name — he can call them over to perform “circus tricks,” such as stopping flight mid-air, turning in circles, and perching on the arms of fascinated bystanders (for a small fee). You could tell how protective and loving he was of these creatures, and they reciprocated similarly towards him.

Damn it, how come when I whisper, only creeps flock to me?

TEACH ME HARRY. PLEASE.

J: Do you like kids?

D: Yes… Fried.

It’s safe to say Doel and I will be lifelong friends. Mi cariño. We laughed and shared so much in the few days we’ve known each other.

After our road trip, we decided to head back to Toa Baja. The houses in Doel’s neighborhood are well-kept and colorful one story homes with bountiful trees and gardens that compliment perfectly. I got to try a freshly picked star fruit from the tree in front of his house! His place had a huge floor plan, decorated in a simplistic but beautiful manner — with collections of unique ornaments, photos, shells, and other art. I showered in a private bathroom, was given my own room, did a load of laundry (yes! Fucking laundry! I never loved laundry like I loved laundry this day), and sprawled out on a soft sofa with the luxury of air conditioning. It was like being in a five star hotel. On top of that, he shared with me a large slab of grilled fish and homemade tostones while we laughed at and mocked cheap horror movies. It sunk us into a comfortable ecstasy, and I fell asleep on the couch before the credits got a chance to roll.

Next Up: Last Night in Puerto Rico — Salsa and Drinks at La Placita!

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